DECEMBER/JAN 2015 • £6.50 UK $15.99
MENG AIR MODELLER
DECEMBER / JANUARY 2015
Chen Zexi brings Hasegawa’s kit up to speed
‘Big Wing’ Ta-152 H1 Zoukei-Mura’s 1:32 kit modelled by Tristan Estoppey.
P-40 Warhawk, part 2 Daniel Zambarbide Suárez takes us step-by-step through his 1:32 project.
F/A-18C Hasegawa’s 1:48 kit is reworked and detailed by Chen Zexi.
Man Overboard! Jaen-Bernard Andre describes his dramatic F-8 diorama.
Westland Wessex HU5 Grega Krizman builds and details the 1:48 Italeri kit
Air Born New releases.
IPMS Hellas 2015 The Editor presents a small photo report from the Greek National Championships held in Athens.
F-5E Tiger II Luc van den Ende reworks the veteran 1:32 Hasegawa kit with spectacular results.
Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by AFV Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES Tel: 01670 823648 Fax: 01670 820274 email: [email protected]
Editor and Designer: David Parker Deputy Editor: Mark Neville Sales Director: Keith Smith
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Ta-152H1 Z O U K E I - M U R A’ S 1 : 3 2 K I T M O D E L L E D B Y T R I S TA N E S T O P P E Y
aving missed the initial release of
everyone's taste but eventually proved to be
Zoukei-Mura's Ta-152H1, now sold-out
comfortable to work with.
for some time, I used the so-called
As usual, I began by detaching from the sprues
"Slipstream Edition" of this gracious
and carefully cleaning up every piece, a time-
airplane. Compared to the initial release, this
consuming task since many of them feature
edition features optional decals for a manga-style
prominent moulding lines and steps. This boring
black painted aircraft and a well rendered 300l
stage is crucial as the typical Zukei-Mura
drop tank (unfortunately not the right type of tank
modular assembly sequence requires a rigorous
and attachment system for an operational Ta-
approach to minimize fit issues later in the build
152). Pieces are moulded in a soft black and
(think butterfly effect).
silver-grey styrene which might not be to
Engine Assembly of the liquid-cooled Jumo engine was trouble-free and only a couple of enhancements were made:
• My references show that exhaust tips
must be flush with the side cowling panels (a
steel and Tamiya Nato
noticeable difference with the FW-190D),
Black (my ubiquitous scale
accordingly the exhaust shrouds rectangular
black) were used as base colours. A thin
boxes were trimmed-down in order to place
coat of Klear floor polish was sprayed on the
them closer to the engine sides.
black parts for a semi-gloss finish and a coat
• Once assembled in its mount, some
of flat varnish over the aluminium parts to kill
The cockpit is not the best area of the kit, both
pipes/cables were added to the engine as its
the shine. Details were picked-up with
in term of moulding finesse and details.
rear end is clearly exposed through the open
acrylic aluminium paint and weathering was
• Both kit seats (with and without moulded
achieved using black and brown washes and
harness) are oddly shaped and softly defined
a 6B lead pencil.
so I opted for the bare one and sanded it down
to a better shape and scale thickness. The seat attachment points were scratchbuilt out of styrene card and a cushion was sculpted in Miliput. • The harness was cut out of a Verlinden lead foil and photoetched buckles were taken from a HGW set (also used as reference for the straps length/width). Lead is resistant to manipulations and allows the harness to be twisted and bent into natural shapes with great ease. Once in place it was painted with an offwhite/sandy colour (but an olive green colour would be appropriate too) and slightly weathered with a brown wash. • The instrument panel is crudely defined and the kit instruments decals poorly printed. In addition, most Airscale instruments decals I was eager to use were much too large for the ZM panel. I sorted this out by sanding flat the dials contours and applied a mix of Airscale 4
and ZM decals. A compromise conveniently hidden below the deep coving.
• The kit gunsight was replaced with a
and Dymo tape were used to keep rivet
Quickboost item, which fit nicely into the
Assembling of the main parts started with
rows regular and straight. Mr. Surfacer
the multi-parts wings. Despite numerous
was also required to tone down the
• The fuel and GM-1 tanks, placed below
dry-fits, I ended-up with wide joint lines.
predominant kit rivets on the cockpit
and behind the cockpit, respectively, are
Cyanoacrylate glue and Mr. Surfacer were
totally invisible but I decided to give them a
called into the rescue and eventually all
Closing the main fuselage halves required
quick paint job anyway!
engraved details, except the wing root
some attention, mostly in the upper front
The cockpit base colour is Tamiya XF-66
panels, were filled and re-scribed.
area. To make the windscreen sit flush with
German Grey. Chipping was applied using
Once the wings were assembled I gave the
the fuselage, the width of the portion
a small piece of foam dipped in Vallejo
model a full rivet job, following the Model
where it sits was reduced. On the rear end,
aluminium acrylic and further weathering
Art 336 plan and references pictures. I
the mating of the 2-parts tail with the half-
was done with black/brown washes as well
used the small diameter MDC punch for
fuselages required the locating tabs to be
as with my airbrush loaded with a highly
this task. The provided MDC spacing ruler
removed, a careful sanding and some
diluted black/brown mix.
plastic card. Mr. Surfacer, wiped-off using Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner to avoid any rivet damage, was used to complete the job. Joining the wings to the fuselage required plastic card, spacers
upper cowling was joined to the fuselage main parts.
(made from sprue sections) and Mr. Surfacer on both the belly sides
The lateral cowlings fit perfectly but care must be taken to correctly
and wing roots. Allow yourself plenty of dry fits as this is the most
align the exhausts on both sides. I removed the mesh from the air
complex assembly stage. Note that the MG tubes must be put in
compressor as this an element added by the Americans on their
place before gluing their access hatch (MG are included should you
captured Ta-152H stored at the NASM. Unveiled, the inside of the
want to hatches opened).
intake was rebuilt using plastic card and filler. The small cowling
Unless you choose to leave a side cowling opened, I strongly advise
bumps at the front of the exhaust shrouds were removed and
to depart form the assembly guide and glue the engine mount to
replaced by a flat piece of plastic card, as observed on the Ta-
the upper cowling first. This will make sure the engine and its
152H0 stored at the NASM. The Ta-152H1 might have a small
mount, a crucial element for the assembly of all the other forward
bump at this location but in any case much less pronounced than
elements, are correctly positioned. Once this done, the
what which ZM provides.
Alclad dark aluminium was then sprayed on the wings undersides.
I started by priming the whole model with a good layer of Tamiya
Some areas were then oversprayed with lighter shades.
TS-30 Spray Aluminium Paint decanted into my airbrush. A few
Slightly lightened Gunze RLM65 (which was typically used on fabric
imperfections were corrected at this stage and primer re-sprayed
covered structures) was then sprayed on the rudder and on the
ailerons undersides. Note that on some aircrafts, flaps were made
Since main markings were painted, a layer of white was then
out of wood and painted RLM76 or RLM65. Gunze RLM76 was then
applied at the wing upper crosses location. Tamiya tape, cut into
applied on the fuselage sides and on the underside, following a W2
shape using an Hasegawa decal sheet as a template, was then
scheme, i.e. leaving the 2nd half of the wings bare metal. This base
place at the cross locations. The same process was used for the
colour was slightly reworked with a lighter shade to break uniformity.
fuselage numbers and RV bands.
The swastikas and fuselage crosses were then painted using self-
The markings applied and ready to start weathering the model.
The exhaust stains are built up gradually in thin layers and then areas of wear and selective cleaning are created with scalpels and micromesh cloth to lift the colour.
Worn paint on the wing roots is created in the same way.
made masks. They were painted at this stage since they were partially overpainted with the upper camouflage shades. Starting with the wings, the upper colours were applied freehand with a tight demarcation. After having hesitated for ages, I opted for a RLM81/82 combination, which was the standard camouflage pattern for the TA-152C, and other German aircraft, from November 1944. Gunze RLM83 was used, reworked with touches of dark green, violet and brown to achieve the so-called green variant of RLM81. Gunze RLM82 was slightly darkened. The paint was applied in a slightly uneven manner as a first weathering step. The model then received a couple of coats of Future Floor polis...